Psyched for the projects...
It's been such a long time!
Right now there is a lot of snow all around the forest, but I can't wait for the snow to melt and go back to Pontives and try again some of the awesome projects. Psyched =)
19 February 2014
My foot injury and nothing more...
It’s now been over 4 months since my last update and today I somehow finally found the motivation to write something about what happend in the last months.
After winning the first bouldering Italian Cup of the season in Milano without being physically 100% fit I got super motivated. I started training pretty hard for the upcoming World Cups in April and May and was feeling physically stronger from week to week.
One week before the first World Cup I then hurt my ligaments of my right ankle pretty bad while training. Competing was now suddenly no issue anymore and I had to walk with crutches for about a month. I kept on doing some basic power training, but motivation suffered a lot. After training so hard for the upcoming competitions, feeling strong, and then suddenly have to cancel 4 major competitions, was super depressing for me.
Now over 3 months have passed since my injury, but I’m still having problems climbing properly, which is not motivating at all. I can do basic moves, but dynamic stuff is still out of question and therefore my climbing still feels horrible.
I also had some outdoor climbing days, but my foot always hurt pretty bad for a few days after it and that has not been very motivating, too.
Altogether it has been a pretty depressing time concerning my climbing. After investing such a lot of energies and time into the preparation for the competition it was hard to give it up for a stupid injury.
I’ve therefore been trying to enjoy more other aspects of my life and altogether it’s been a good time, especially with my friends. I’m still struggling with my foot injury, but motivation slowly comes back and I’m getting psyched again. I can’t wait to enjoy again climbing some reel rock and maybe also some other good stuff will happen soon!
Still waiting and hoping for the best to happen ;-)
21 July 2013
Hi folks =)
I’ve not been writing anything for quite a long time now, although there would have been a few things to report. First of all, our short trip to Cresciano and Chironico about three weeks ago, where I managed to climb a few very nice lines, including Confessons and Boogalagga, both about 8b.
After that I spent a lot of time doing stuff for university and trying to stay in a good shape. Last week I spent some time in Merano setting some boulders for a competition and it made me psyched for some competition climbing.
I therefore decided to participate at the Bouldering Italian Cup this last weekend. I hadn’t take part at a serious competition for almost one and half years and I really didn’t know what to expect.
Not being in any rank list anymore I had to qualify for the semifinals on Friday, for which most strong people are already directly qualified. The qualification round went pretty well and I qualified in first position, having done all the problems in one or at most two tries.
Next day I was one of the first coming out in the semifinals and I did very well. I flashed three of the four problems, and only the second boulder took me 2 tries since I once slipped with both hands. I had a really good feeling and I turned out to be right. I qualified for the finals in first position, being the only one who had done all the problems. My good friend Michael was on second position having done three problems and on third position another South Tyrolean team mate Stefan Scarperi with two tops. Alexandra unfortunately had to fight with her wrist injury and so she wasn’t able to do well, despite I know that she is as strong as she hasn’t ever been before.
The finals finally turned out to be quite a bit too easy. Four of the six finalists did all four problems and so it came down to the attempts. I was lucky enough to keep my nerves and flash all the problems, winning my first Italian Cup and that in a bouldering competition ;-)
I’m super happy right now and I would really like to thank all my friends and my family for the support.
P.s.: The next Italian Cup is only in a few months, so no clue which competition is next, but hopefully some good rock in the next few weeks!
Here the full results.
18 March 2013
One week in Cresciano (short Photostory)
Pictures by Alexandra Ladurner and Michael Piccolruaz
17 January 2013
100.000 views - I LIKE IT
Our video just reached the 100.000 views =)
This really makes me psyched to shoot and edit a new one. Can't wait!
Meanwhile enjoy the video of Magic Wood I did last year with Martin Dejori, Alex Walpoth and Alexandra Ladurner ;-)
23 November 2012
Looking foreward to some climbing
Well, it’s not necessary to mention that I’ve been lazy updating my blog lately. I’ve been busy with all kind of things, but after Rocklands no experience seemed worth writing about.
In the last three weeks I’ve not been climbing as much as I would have liked, because I had some serious troubles with my middle finger. It’s slowly getting better, but the inflamed tendon still hurts too much to train and climb properly and so I’ve been doing only a few sessions without forcing my finger too much.
In about a week we have some holidays and we are going to Misja Pec. I’ve been really looking forward to try some of the Slovenian classics and I just hope that my finger will be ok by then.
22 October 2012
I got back home a few days ago and since then I’ve been pretty busy with all kind of stuff.
The second part of our Rocklands trip has been as amazing as the first part, although our days were a bit different since I started working on some lines a bit more intensely. I soon realized that 5 weeks in Rocklands is definitely not enough and so I tried to climb as much as possible (which ended in 15 days of climbing in a row). Unfortunately my skin at a certain point was horrible and I had that many cuts that I had to tape up to 7 finger tips.
I then started working Black Shadow, which is one of the few boulders in Rocklands that doesn’t ruin your skin too much. Black Shadow is one of the most famous lines and although it’s “only” graded 8a+ I found it terribly hard. I had to realize that the boulder doesn’t fit my style at all and I had to try hard in order to do all the moves.
On my fourth day in that sector a lot of people where there trying the problem, including superstar Alex Honnold, and although the atmosphere was good my attempts where feeling horrible as always. Despite that I decided to give it some tries in order do at least some training and on one of these goes everything worked perfectly. I climbed through the crux and managed then to not fall on the last hard moves and was super happy when I got to the top. I’ve never climbed something that unexpected and I couldn’t stop laughing for quite a while =) Definitely one of the best moments for me…
A few days later I had probably my best day in Rocklands when I went to the Roadside sector to finish some unfinished business. On my second attempt of the day I finally managed to climb Oral Office, which a very cool 8a+ dyno opened by Klem Loskot a few years ago. Super thrilled I climbed then Pendragon (8a) and decided to go try Leopard cave (8a+). I soon figured out the moves and could then sent it first try from the start which felt greate =) I then climbed Herbie, which was graded 8a, but is maybe easier, and called it finally a day although it was only 2pm.
Two days before we had to leave we decided to go to the Sassies sector to finish of Soshaloza (8a+) which I wasn’t able to climb the first time I was there. This time I felt strong on the problem and could do the first move which was the crux for me, but something else had happen…the top jug of Soshaloza has broken! The top jug isn’t totally broken, but it will certainly break again and then the problem will be really hard. I’ve been trying the problem without the jug and in my opinion the boulder is still possible if you take a very small and sharp crimp, but the problem is definitely not nearly as good as it was before and that is a great pity. I then climbed Red Meat (8b) in a few tries and came desperately close flashing No me gusta, an easy 8a+, which I then did two tries later, but although this problems are good they are unfortunately not nearly as good as Soshaloza.
Most of the other days where mainly characterized by getting freaking close to some problems, but then not being able to finish them off till the end. Here a list of problems I would really like to do next time I’m going to Rocklands: Power of bar-one (8a+), Quintessential (8b), Megalo (8a+), The big short (8a), Mooiste Maise (8b), The vice (8b), King of limbs (8b/+), Madiba (8b)
To sum it up in a few words, I’ve to say that this season in Rocklands was amazing. There were incredibly lots of strong climbers in the area and the atmosphere was always really thrilling. It’s been amazing to climb with a lot of new people and it’s been very inspiring to see how committed a lot of climbers are to this lifestyle. South Africa is a very interesting place, and the nightlife in Cape Town was always a nice experience and change in the daily routine. I really can only recommend a trip to Rocklands =)
Pictures by Alexandra Ladurner
06 September 2012
We arrived at the De Pakhuys campground two days ago in the evening. After a long flight and three hours car ride from Cape Town we were all tired, but also very psyched. Yesterday was our first climbing day and we went to the De Pakhuys area. We climbed some moderates and I tried a bit an apparently unrepeated Klem Loskot problem. After a while we decided to try Black Velvet (8a) which is one of the most amazing dynos around and I was super happy when I managed to climb it after a few tries.
Today we went to Roadside and the place is so amazing. First we climbed the famous Rhino (7b+) with the German crew around Jan Hojer, Jule Wurm and Alex Megos and then we headed to the sector. On the first big boulder there are some of the most famous problems including Nutsa, Out of balance and Monkey Wedding. The first boulder I tried was Out of Balance (8a). Jan gave me some beta and I was able to flash the first hard part. I got incredibly psyeched since I really wanted to flash something hard and I fought my way up to the top. Perfect start for this =)
Meanwhile a few girls where trying Nutsa (8a/+). I waited for my turn and then almost wanted to come down since the startholds are so painful. I climbed the first moves quite easily and then Megos gave me some beta for the rest of the problem and suddenly I stand on top of the boulder and had flashed another amazing problem.
At this point I had no skin anymore and so I decided to explore a bit some other sectors. Nevertheless I couldn’t resist trying a bit some classics like Madiba (8b/+) and I finished my day by trying King of Limbs (8b+) with Nalle and Jan. By the way, Nalle did it quite fast and he looks super strong right now. Impressive!
Today my skin felt super bad and so I went with Ale to the “small sector” Fields of Joy. Climbed some moderates, then a super cool problem called Klem’s wall (8a) and finished my day by climbing No late benders in a few tries (8a). Tomorrow rest day!
We drove yesterday to Lambertsbay and it was cool being at the sea, but actually nothing special. Today we climbed at an area called Sassies. With the Germans we warmed up by flashing Pinotage sds (7c/+) and then A spash of red (7c+) which are two amazing highballs. Next on the list was the famous jump Leap of faith (8a). With a lot of crash pads it felt save and I did it on my third try which felt good =) I spent the rest of the afternoon trying Soshaloza (8a+). I felt so incredibly week on this problem and it was so frustrating to fall over and over again trying the same move. Definitely have to retur!
Riverside is a bit under my expectations, but maybe it’s also because I sucked today. The only cool thing of the day was Moiset Maise (8b/+), which I tried a bit and which felt somehow possible =) Psyched.
Yesterday it rained and so we drove to Clanwillam where we spent the day. It was ok. Today instead was our first day in the 8 day rain sector. It was very windy and after a short warm-up I went to the Barracuda boulder with Gu. Barracuda (8a) was one of the lines I really wanted to climb this trip and so I was super psyched. I started well, grabbed the crux hold quite good and climbed the boulder to the top. I really hadn’t expected to flash this one =) Two more tries and I was also able to climb the sit start which is about 8a+. Spent the rest of the day climbing many moderates and some other amazing lines like Golden Virginia (8a) and finished my day by trying Quintessential (8b) which a bit too sharp but otherwise really inspiring.
Another day at Roadside =) Spent about two hours trying Oral Office (8a+) and got super close but then my fingers hurt too much and now I have to return another time. Later we went to the Cedar Rouge sector and I decided to try Green Mamba (8a+). The boulder is way taller than expected and so I didn’t even try to flash it. After working the moves a bit I felt confident and I decided to try it from the start. Failed twice, but then I climbed it pretty easily and it felt so great. So much else to do in that sector.
Yesterday = rest day. We drove to Citrusdal to the hot spring and it was quite relaxing. Today instead we went to Kliphius Campground. After briefly warming up I climbed In the middle of the ass (8a) in a few tries, which climbs better than it looks, but is still not one of the usual proud lines here in Rocklands. Later we went to the Ron Ron et Caramel (7c+) boulder. This one is one of my favourite boulders here in Rocklands and the sit, which is about 8a, makes the boulder even more complete =) Next was the famous A tea with Elmarie (8a+). The problem fits my style well and I was really psyched to give it a solid flash try. I started super motivated, climbed the first part fluently but then had to struggle with the upper part of the boulder. Had to try very hard in order to succeed but once reached the top I was super happy.
After that I actually wanted to call it a day, but then I gave a look at L’arche (8b). I got psyched and decided to work a bit the moves. The crux is in the middle in the boulder and it involves a super sharp pinch/crimp. The end is also very demanding but I though it should work. I gave it a go from the start and managed to climb surprisingly through the crux. But then I became tired and fell unexpected at the very end. It was quite frustrating, but I decided to give it another go. Next try was surprisingly good and I climbed once again through the crux. I moved my foot and totally unexpected I dabbed. I couldn’t believe it. Almost wanted to call it a day since my fingertips where almost bleeding. But then I tried it once more and this time everything worked. Topping out this problem felt so incredibly good and I really hadn’t expected to climb this one in only one hour and a half.
Pictures by Alexandra Ladurner, Simon Messner and Philipp Prünster
10 August 2012
Off to Rocklands
Tomorrow is the start of our 5 weeks journey to South Africa. We will drive with a bus to Munich (Germany) and then fly with Emirates to Cape Town. We will only make a very short stopover in Dubai.
Once in Cape Town we will drive to Rocklands where we plan to stay at the De Pakhuys during our 5 weeks sojournment.
I'm already extreamly psyched for what's to come and I'll try to update my homepage regularly, or at least as often as I'll be able. I don't know how the internet connection is in Rocklands but I'll give my best to post photos and videos of the place ;-)
Stay tuned. This are going to be very exciting weeks =)
22 July 2012
I just came back from Magic Wood and it’s been a trip full of mixed emotions. I’ve never left a place with that many projects and on the one hand that really sucks, but on the other hand it’s also motivating and I can’t wait to return once again…
Right now I’m at home on the balcony, sitting in the sun with a cup of coffee and this are all things I’ve really missed in the last two weeks. During our short trip it’s been raining most of the time and coffee was unfortunately also only a luxury ;-)
On my best day I was able to climb The right hand of darkness (8A) and The left hand of darkness (8A+) in the darkness cave in about half an hour and a few minutes later I flashed the high start of From the darkness to the sunshine (easy 7C+) and redpointed about an hour later the original low start of the problem which is about 8A/+.
I was also really happy when I was able to climb the first part of the Unendliche Geschichte (8A+). This boulder is totally my anti-style and I had to try hard before succeeding. I climbed it the last day under the rain and the friction was incredibly good. After doing it I did also easily the moves of the second part and a part of me really wanted to try the whole line, but I it was already late and so we went to the campground.
Here a list of problems I got super close on(but did not manage to climb):
- Electroboogie (8A/+)
- Voigas (8A/+)
- Jack’s broken heart (8A/+)
- Foxy Lady (8A)
- Rythmo (7C+)
- No liverty (8A)
- Free for all (8A)
Never ending story (8B+, but on this one actually not that close)
I’ll be at home for about a week now, and beyond doing some stuff that really need to be done, I’ll mainly just relax and try to recover, because next Monday we are already leaving for Rocklands and I’m so incredibly psyched for what’s to come =)
Pictures by Alexandra Ladurner and Michael Piccolruaz
15 July 2012
I’m finally finished with university for this semester and for the next few months I’ll just climb. Next week I’m off to Merano for some route setting and then, if everything works, I’m going for about a week to Magic Wood with some friends. Can’t wait to try again some unfinished business there, like the Never ending story, Riverbad...
After Magic Wood I will return home for about a week, pack all my stuff and then I’m finally off to South Africa. I’m so psyched for what’s to come and I will try to update my homepage regularly. Stay tuned =)
When I went to Pontives two weeks ago I couldn’t believe my eyes. A construction company had fenced a big part of the main sector, including some of the best boulders Pontives has to offer. The reason because they fenced the area is that they are looking for the porphyry rock hidden in the ground. I hadn’t yet the opportunity to speak with one of those responsible for this and so I’ve to admit that I don’t know how far they are planning to expand their works. They haven’t yet destroyed any boulders, but they are now about one meter in front of one of the biggest boulders, so I really don’t know what’s going to happen next. Let’s hope the best…
Picture courtesy by Alexandra Ladurner
Nothing special actually, but I’m not complaining =) I’ve been mainly training bouldering, especially for my upcoming trip to Rocklands! Although we start only in about two months, I’m already super psyched and really can’t wait to try some of the many classics.
Last weekend I took part at the Climbo, which is a nice bouldering competition in Brixen. I finished my competition on second place and was a bit disappointed with the result, but I was super tired from the qualifiers and couldn’t give by best in the finals.
I’ve also been enjoying some alpine climbing lately with my friends, but also with my dad =)
Yesterday for example I decided to go climbing with my good friend Tobia. We went to Ciavazes and actually wanted to do a moderate route, but then we realized that big chunks of ice were falling down from the wall above the route and so we tried the famous Via Italia ’61, which has some hard pitches up to 8a. I always wanted to climb this route one day, but I had only old climbing shoes with me and so I somehow knew that I was not going to climb it free. The first few pitches are simple, but the fourth is quite hard. It’s graded 7c+ and the protection is good, but the last few moves are not that easy. My hands were freezing and I had actually no chance to on sight the pitch. I decided to not give it another go and struggled the last few meters up to the belay. The next 20 meters are graded 8a, and are way easier than the 7c+. Nevertheless I fell at the last move and I’ve to admit I’m a bit embarrassed that I was not able to on sight this one, but well…such is life. This pitch is fantastic and one of the best I’ve ever climbed in the dolomites. After a slab you have a 5 meter long roof with plenty of jugs and a few pinches. Amazing =)
The next pitches are not that difficult, but demanding and so I was super tired when we arrived back to the car. Now I definitely want to go back…
I was also in Pontives last week and I discovered that a construction company has fenced a big part of the main sector. I don’t know yet what they are going to do exacly, but as soon as I know it, I’ll blog about it. Stay tuned ;-)
19 May 2012
It's going on =)
Well, life is full of unexpected happenings ;-)
Lately I’ve spent quite a lot of time in Pontives and every day has been exciting: searching new lines, cleaning them and most of all trying them later on. Two weeks ago I tried briefly a steep roof. I had always thought that the line would be nearly impossible or at least not doable with my strength, but the line is amazing and so I gave it a few tries. I figured out some good beta and was able to do “almost” all the moves within a few minutes. We then went to another boulder, but this one definitely got stuck in my head and I really couldn’t wait to come back and retry it.
Unfortunately two days later I started feeling pain in my wrist. Already two years ago I had to deal with a serious wrist injury and so I gave up my training for a while and climbed only easy stuff. But it got even worse and so I decided to do some preventive rest. My wrist still hurts, but I’m still confident that it will pass soon so that I can restart climbing… The only positive thing is that I’ve know enough time to go to university, but well… ;-)
By the way, I’ve booked my flights to South Africa for this summer. Almost 40 days of bouldering in Rocklands. I’m already now so incredibly psyched…OMG…hopefully I can soon restart training =)
Below the link to a very nice video Martin Dejori and Marvin Kovald have done of their trip to Cresciano and Chironico. Enjoy!
28 March 2012
The Pontives season just started and there are already prime conditions. I’ve a new project I started cleaning last year, but I hadn’t tried it till last week. This week I figured out most of the moves and all I can say is that it is sick. Some big moves lead to an awesome jump to a good hold and the remaining 4 meters (!!!) are easy but really exposed ;-)
Today I tried with Michael P. some new boulders in a fairly new sector. After a while Michael did the FA of an amazing boulder with a crazy jump at the end and I repeated it a bit later. The problem is 7b/7b+ and really cool. The sit start to the problem is even better and probably more in the 7c+/8a range. Don’t know. Can’t wait to try it again =)
Next we went to a sick roof. After cleaning it a bit we tried the problem and it has some of the best moves I’ve ever done in a roof. Some easy compression moves (amazing!!!) along two rails lead to an a bit more technical exit. We haven’t done the problem yet, but it’s probably in the 7b+ range as well. By the way, on the same roof a bit to the left there is another amazing project, this one probably in the 8b range ;-) So much to do…
The guidebook I did of Pontives two years ago is still online, but there are meanwhile quite a few new problems in the area. Right now we are cleaning and opening new boulders in 5 different sectors and therefore there are a lot of new problems.
11 March 2012
I just came back frome my trip to Cresciano and it’s been awesome. It was my first trip to Ticino and I really enjoyed discovering new areas. The weather was good and the only bad thing was the lack of skin at a certain point ;-)
I tried a lot of super problems and here are the one who impressed me most (unfortunately I was able to do just a few of them):
La Pelle, 8a+ (NOT DONE): True classic line. Tried it a bit the first day, came back two days later but had no skin and it hurt that much that I wasn’t even able to hold the startholds. Definitely want to do this one next time ;)
Kirk Windstein, 8a (DONE): Tried a bit the moves and did it in a few tries. Crimpy, not that steep and definitely more my style. Really cool boulder!!! By the way, Michael P. flashed this one - impressive!!!!
La Proue, 8b (NOT DONE): I wasn’t even nearly able to climb this one. It’s tremendous hard to place your left foot and I didn’t take the time to try it more than 5 minutes. One for the next trip =)
Le vent sombre, 8a (NOT DONE): A slab with two big moves. Tried it a bit, fell with the last hold in my hand a few times and then gave it up, because the second hold was splitting my skin. Nevertheless really cool to try this problem.
La Boule, 8a (DONE): One of the first 8a’s in Cresciano. Super classic. Tried it at the end of the day and was super tired. About 30 tries in one hour??? Had to try hard, but the moves are really good and I really enjoyed climbing this one!
Jungle Book sit, 8a (DONE): The stand is probably the best boulder in Cresciano!!! The sit adds in difficulty but definitely not in beauty. Took me about an hour to climb the whole boulder and was very happy afterwards. Super boulder!!!
Dreamtime stand, 8a+ (NOT DONE): This one is a proud boulder, especially doing the jump. Tried it about half an hour with the crimp beta and was able to do the first move, but then had to quit because of a hole in my fingertip. Will definitely come back to try this again!!!
Il Partner, 7c (DONE): Flashed this one pretty easily. The sit isn’t that good, but the rest of the problem is super. Proud line with big moves till the end. 5 stars line!
Frank’s wild years, 8a/8a+ (NOT DONE): Tried this on the last day. Super boulder, but definitely not my style. Tried hard till it was dark with the headlamp, but wasn’t able to complete the problem. Hopefully next time it’ll feel easier ;)
Backgammon, 7c (DONE): This one doesn’t look that good! Took me a while to figure out the moves, and then sent. Really wanted to do also the sit (8a), but it was already getting dark and so I wasn’t anymore able to link all the moves. This one climbs definitely better than it looks!
One day was also spent in Chironico, which is at least as good as Cresciano.
Confession of a crap artist, 7c??? (DONE): One of the best boulders. High with some fun moves. Fell on the flash at the top because my hand slipped and did it two tries later. Definitely not 8a and probably neither 7c+.
Miss Schweiz, 8a (DONE): Did it with the jump beta. Crazy like that. The last moves aren’t that hard, but really exposed, so quite scary. Just another 5 stars line ;)
Freak Brothers, 8a (NOT DONE): Had seen so many videos of this problem and really wanted to do this one. Found it at the end of the day and put a lot of effort into it. Came really close to climb it, but then it got dark, my fingers were bleeding and my body was sore. Chrionico is without doubt worth a trip.
Those were definitely the boulders that impressed me most. Unfortunately I failed on many of them, or just came very close to climb them. It was my first time in Cresciano and Chironico and I already now plan to return as soon as possible. The boulders are just way too amazing and there are so many lines I want to try. Can’t wait to return.
26 February 2012
Cresciano here I come ;)
In two days I'm going to Cresciano for a week of bouldering. I've never been in Cresciano and I'm super psyched for the short trip.
Here the video of my last bouldering trip to Magic Woods last summer. Just to keep the psyche high ;)
Lots of boulders in my mind, so stay tuned =)
14 February 2012
New year ;)
It’s been a long time since my last update. A very long time!!!
In December I’ve done some kind of break, climbing just once a week or so, and only in January I started again training a bit. The break wasn’t programmed at all (to be honest, I’ve never done one), but my mind was tired and I really needed some rest.
My first semester at University is over and I’ve now about one month of vacation ;) Unfortunately the weather forecast for the next few days isn’t that promising (temps down to -20°) for this week, but next week seems already a bit better.
Last Sunday I was in Terlago, a little crag near Arco and I started working a bit on a route called Thin Ice. Thin Ice is a nice 8c route with a lot of crimps and it took me quite a while to just figure out the moves, but now I’m really psyched to return and finish the unfinished business ;)
Yesterday I was in Algund for a short bouldering session. It was cold and most boulders were covered with snow, but I really wanted to try a boulder I wasn’t able to climb the previous times. The boulder is called Pizza,Beer and 230 Hp and is about 10 moves long. Already two years ago I was close doing the problem, but something always happened. Yesterday I was finally able to climb the whole problem and although it’s “only” 8a I’m very happy it’s over now ;) Onto the next one...
All pictures by Alexandra Ladurner ;)
The competition season is over
…and I totally failed. The last two competitions were even the worst!
Two weeks ago I was in Kranj for the last EYC 2011. Already in the two qualification routes I climbed super bad. Nevertheless I started climbing the final route pretty confident, because I knew that I was actually in a good shape. About 10 moves before the top there was a little volume and I totally got into panic. I did two more moves and fell then like a little child four moves before the winner did and finished the competition on the 8th position.
Two days later I became ill. I was three days in the bad with fewer and felt super weak. The next day I left for Aprica for the Italian Championship and although I felt already way better I was still far from my usual shape. I managed to qualify for the finals, but there I wasn’t able to do the hard moves and felt already at the beginning of the route -> 7th position.
In the last few weeks I’ve been training quite a lot for this last two competitions of the season and now I’m super disappointed on how I climbed. Bad things happen…
Right now I’m taking a few days off from climbing. Not because my body is sore after the long season, but mainly because I really need to find again my “amazing” motivation after this two frustrating competitions.
06 december 2011
It’s still the university, the one who takes up most of my time. Although the conditions for rock climbing are now prime (all the recent hard ascent all around prove that), I’ve not been climbing outdoors for quite a while and honestly, I’m not proud of that.
At least I’ve been able to train a bit and so I’m not completely out of shape right now. Next weekend, the 26th and 27th, I’ll take part at the last European Youth Cup of the season. It’s the last year I’m allowed to compete among the juniors and so my last junior competition – ever. I always enjoyed competing at the junior competitions and I’m in some way sad, that this’ll be my last one. I’ve seen that all the strong guys in my category will take part at this competition, so it’s going to be a tough one for sure, but I promise I’ll give my best ;-)
The weekend after Kranj there is the Italian Championship in Aprica. The wall in Aprica is not my favorite one, but I’m really excited for this comp, too.
After this two competitions the season is definitely over and I really hope, I’ll manage to climb outside during the winter and try some projects. I’ve already some in my mind ;)
18 november 2011
Some photos and the official video of the IMS 2011
I've already written something about the IMS competition, which was held last week. Here finally some photos and a short video.
All pictures: http://www.stol.it/PR/IMS2011/Boulderfestival-in-Brixen-Bildergalerie
Here a short video of the competition ;) enjoy
IMS Boulder Festival
If you are successful it’s easy to find the motivation to write something for the blog. But unfortunately lately I wasn’t too lucky in the competitions and that’s basically what I’ve been focusing on in the last period.
On Monday and Tuesday I did some route setting during the NIGHT (what means that we worked both days till 5am). After that I had no skin anymore and so I had to take 3 rest days, since my hands were hurting too much.
The IMS bouldering festival started on Friday with the Boulder Jam. In the qualifications I didn’t feel strong at all, but after two and a half hour of bouldering I had climbed all the problems but one and so I qualified for the finals in the evening.
During the finals it was freaking hot. We all had no skin anymore and we all were still pretty tired from the qualification round. The first boulder was pretty tough. There was a really hard move at the beginning and I just managed to do it by throwing my foot high above my head and doing a freaking crazy move. Unfortunately this solution took me a lot of energy and so I was too tired to climb the end of the problem. On the second problem I failed miserably. Completely. The third boulder should have been determining. I felt again a bit better and managed to do the first part of the problem quite well. And then there was a double dyno in the middle. Normally it’s probably one of the easiest moves of the boulder, but I failed twice trying to do the jump and that cost me the victory. Nicky de Leeuw won, Michael Piccolruaz got second and I got third. Not bad, but well…
On Saturday there was the competition with the stars. Unfortunately the boulders were a bit too hard. Adam Ondra won deserved and I have to admit, that he looks incredibly strong and that on every kind of boulder. Guillaume got second and I think he will be one of the strongest guys even next year in the World Cup. Kilian Fischhuber ended on the third position, Stefan Scarperi on the 4th, Daniel Woods on the 5th and Nicky de Leeuw on the 6th. Among the girls Anna Stöhr won by flashing easily the last problem, in front of Melanie Sandoz, Sabine Bacher, Andrea Prünster, Andrea Ebner and Courtney Sanders. It was again a nice event and even the after comp party was not bad at all =)
30 october 2011
Massone and Italian Cup
In the last days I’ve been pretty busy. During the week I wanted to train a bit for the lead competition, but ended doing just some bouldering. On Friday I started cleaning a really nice boulder in Pontives. The first moves look really hard and the topout is, although the moves are not hard, kinda scary since the boulder is about 7 meters high.
On Saturday I spent a few hours in Massone. I tried once Underground, 9a, but it’s totally my antistyle and I think I would have to invest a lot of time for being able to climb it. After that I climbed some easier routes and onsighted a nice and technical 8a called Profumo d’invisibile.
Today I participated at the Lead Italian Cup in Arco. I haven’t been climbing with a rope for the last two months and could not judge if I was strong or not. I surprised myself by climbing pretty well in the semifinals and falling just four moves from the top. I entered in the finals as 3rd and was really happy about that.
The route in the final was pretty long. I climbed my way throw the lower part well but a bit too slowly. I reached a no hand rest when I had about one minute left. I knew that I had not enough time to rest properly and so I just rested for a few seconds. The last moves were quite hard. I managed to climb throw that section and fell touching the final jug. I was happy but knew I could have done better since I had 10 seconds left when I fell and that would have been enough for clipping the chain. At that moment I was first. The next one clipped the chain, but since he was out of time while clipping he didn’t get the top. Even the last one had some time problems and fell at the same point as me.
16 october 2011
Since last year, when we discovered the bouldering area Pontives, there has always been one boulder in my mind. It was cleaned by a good friend of mine already in the summer last year but I only started trying it in autumn 2010. After three sessions I was getting really close, but then I unfortunately broke the start hold and since that made the whole problem a lot harder, I lost my motivation since it was already November and my chances of climbing the boulder before the snow came, were basically zero.
The next day, yesterday, I was really motivated to try the problem again but I was feeling a bit sick and so I took a rest day and went on the alp with some good friend to relax a bit ;)
Today I arrived home at 5 a clock. Since it gets already dark at 7pm, I was uncertain if it was worth to go and try the problem, but then my motivation prevailed. After a few nice warm up problems I started trying my project. I worked for a bit the moves and then started doing some serious tries. I was feeling good but I just rarely was able to stick the first move and then I always failed on the next one. It was already getting dark and I was feeling the pressure. I took a few minutes of rest and then retried the problem. I did the first move perfectly and was really surprised as I managed to put enough pressure on the crimp to change hand quite easily. I was really excited and luckily I was even able to stick the next move. From there I fought my way up to the top and couldn`t believe it when I grabbed the ledge =)
I call the boulder problem “Cold Front” and in my opinion it`s a five star boulder. The moves are really good and the holds pretty cool and the only problem is that you need a lot of skin if you want to try it a lot. And what`s about the grade??? I have not a lot of experience in grading boulder problems, but it’s the hardest boulder I have ever done and so I propose the grade 8a+ and hope that soon someone will repeat the problem =)
Next weekend I’ll be in Arco for the Italian Cup. I’ve just been bouldering lately and hope I’ve enough endurance…but there is still a week left, so hopefully I’ll be able to train a bit =)
P.s.: Right now I have just a few old photos of me on the problem...hopefully I'll get some fresh one soon.
09 october 2011
Hi folks. I’m sorry for the lack of updates lately but I’ve been really busy with all kind of things. The biggest change was the start of the university. Since last week I’m attending the Free University of Bolzano and since then I’ve been fully taken up by it. The courses are all pretty demanding I’ve not been able to climb a lot. Hopefully I’ll be able to find enough time to train seriously despite that.
This weekend I was again in Pontives for the first time after a long period. On the first day I climbed the super boulder problem Graffity girl, 7c. The problem took me just a few minutes and so I decided to go and try my old project. I was able to reclimb the first move after the break of the starthold last year but had to struggle on the rest of the problem and I will probably have to try it a few more times.
Today we brushed some boulders and I’m pretty psyched on some of the new projects. Now I just need some better temps and enough time to try them ;)
02 september 2011
The first bouldering EYC took place this weekend in Merano. IMO it’s been a great event and I’m sure that we are going to see this typ of competitions as often as the lead competitions in the future. The qualification of all the categories started already on Saturday. Since I’ve almost just been training for the lead competitions lately I had no expectations, nevertheless I was really glad to have the opportunity to participate.
In the qualifications every athlete had to climb 12 boulder problems during an hour and a half. I tried a muerte for the whole time and ended the comp with 9 tops and 12 zones, and despite all the problems would have been possible I’m not disappointed at all with my performance. Nevertheless I finished the comp only on the 11th position and so I didn’t qualify myself for the finals.
The finals on Sunday were quite funny. Some of the athletes showed that they have already the power to compete at senior competitions like some of the French, Austrian and Slovenian team. Even the Italians impressed. Annalisa won among the youngest women and my good mate Michael got second in his category…I’m very glad for him =) Stefano got 3rd and that’s not bad with that strong rivals. Alexandra ended “only” 2nd, but considering that she has big problems with her wrist injury right now, it’s really impressing.
I’m not going to the next bouldering competition in Munich, which allows me to train for the upcoming lead competitions. Oh, by the way…I have two more weeks free, and then I’ll attend university in Bolzano ;-)
13 september 2011
The comp is now over and it’s been good fun. The qualifications started last Thursday and I climbed pretty worse. I wasn’t feeling strong at all and so I was happy that I entered at least in the semifinals.
On Saturday, the day of the semifinals, I was really excited. Right now I am climbing way better if the routes are on sight and it didn’t matter me that it was raining. I started my climbing relaxed and I was lucky enough to progress without difficulties. I was psyched and I wasn`t that pumpy when I arrived under the big roof. Only a few moves remained to reach the top and I was feeling still comfortable…and then my hand slipped. I ended the comp on the 10th position and missed the entrance to the finals.
The finals were a great show. The Röck family won in two categories, Julia Serrier beat the incredible strong Ernst and DiGiulian and the Slovenian team impressed with Raztresen and Skofic dominating in his category. The Italians weren`t so lucky…the defending champion Alexandra Ladurner had to fight with a wrist injury and the only Italian reaching the podium was Stefano Ghisolfi, but even he could have do more…nevertheless you are all my heros =)
And of course the after contest party has been great, too =)
29 august 2011
I spent last week in Merano setting some boulders in the gym.
The World Youth Championship in Imst starts in two days. Getting psyched!
23 august 2011
I’ve been on the road since my last post. I spent the first days in Tarvisio, where we trained a bit for the upcoming competitions. On the last day of the training camp we went to Warmbad which is a really cool crag and I would really like to return to this place in the near future. I tried a few routes, but failed on every serious on sight attempt. At least I managed to climb a two 8as =)
On our rest day we headed to Imst for the EYS. The competition was good fun and the routes were super. I entered in the finals with a mediocre presentation, but at least I entered. I started the final route without mistakes and reached the big roof without being too pumped. Unfortunately right now I’m super weak climbing roofs and I fell after a few moves jumping to a hold. I didn’t even touch the hold and so I ended on 5th position. If I would have touch the hold I would at least have became third, but who cares.
Tomorrow I’m going to Merano, where I will work a bit as boulder setter for a few days. The days after, I’m planning to train a bit, because the World Youth Championship starts already on Wednesday 24th. Can’t wait for it ;-)
16 august 2011
Training seriously is a hard job. My fingers hurt and my body feels completely destroyed. And nevertheless I'm not even feeling strong at the moment. Hopefully I’ll be at least fit for the competitions at the end of the season.Tomorrow I’m going to Tarvisio for a training camp of the national youth team as a preparation for the upcoming competitions. The next will be the EYS in Imst and two weeks later the Youth World Championship.
picture courtesy by Alexandra Ladurner, Martin Dejori and Marvin Kobald
08 april 2011
It’s been quite a while since my last post but I have been extremely busy lately. A few days after the Magic Wood trip, I drove to Arco for the World Championship. My performance at the comp was anything but good and I ended more or less in the middle of the ranking. Nevertheless it was really cool to see the great show of some of the best athletes of the moment like Sharafutdinov (!!!), Stöhr, Ramon, Schubert, Ondra and Eiter.
31 july 2011
As promised, here the video to our trip to Magic Wood. Enjoy...;-)
These days I am in Arco for the World Championship. Super excited =)
18 july 2011
I have spent the last week in Magic Wood and it’s been incredible. We started right after my final examination and reached Magic Wood in the late afternoon. Straight away I started trying the second part of the Never ending story, 8a. Since it’s not my style I was pretty surprised as I managed to climb the boulder after about half an hour and so I worked a bit on the moves of One summer in paradise at the end of the day.
On the second day I tried various boulders. I climbed a nice traverse called Down under, 7c+, and worked a bit on some other problems till my skin was destroyed.
The third day was a good day. After an ascent of Sofa surfer, an 8a boulder with cool moves on slopers, I went to Octopussy and surprised myself by doing it in less than an hour. Although this boulder doesn’t look so good it’s really fun to climb it.
On the fourth day I rested almost the whole day and I just made a few tries in One summer in paradise, falling at the last move for about three times. The next day I finally managed to climb the problem. One summer in paradise is one of the best boulders I have ever done and my first 8b =) Although it’s for sure not hard for the grade it was super fun to climb it.
Yesterday, the last day of our trip, I tried some wired boulders. I had a look at Riverbad, which is so amazing and I can’t wait to return to Magic Wood to try this problem…
In the next few day I hope to train a bit, because then I’m off to Arco for the World Championship. Can’t wait for it!!!
P.s.: We have shot some stuff and we’ll make a film with some of the best problems we did, so stay tuned =)
picture courtesy by Alexandra Ladurner, Martin Dejori and Marvin Kobald
08 april 2011