Blog
Some alpine climbing
Nothing special actually, but I’m not complaining =) I’ve been mainly training bouldering, especially for my upcoming trip to Rocklands! Although we start only in about two months, I’m already super psyched and really can’t wait to try some of the many classics.
Last weekend I took part at the Climbo, which is a nice bouldering competition in Brixen. I finished my competition on second place and was a bit disappointed with the result, but I was super tired from the qualifiers and couldn’t give by best in the finals.
I’ve also been enjoying some alpine climbing lately with my friends, but also with my dad =)
Yesterday for example I decided to go climbing with my good friend Tobia. We went to Ciavazes and actually wanted to do a moderate route, but then we realized that big chunks of ice were falling down from the wall above the route and so we tried the famous Via Italia ’61, which has some hard pitches up to 8a. I always wanted to climb this route one day, but I had only old climbing shoes with me and so I somehow knew that I was not going to climb it free. The first few pitches are simple, but the fourth is quite hard. It’s graded 7c+ and the protection is good, but the last few moves are not that easy. My hands were freezing and I had actually no chance to on sight the pitch. I decided to not give it another go and struggled the last few meters up to the belay. The next 20 meters are graded 8a, and are way easier than the 7c+. Nevertheless I fell at the last move and I’ve to admit I’m a bit embarrassed that I was not able to on sight this one, but well…such is life. This pitch is fantastic and one of the best I’ve ever climbed in the dolomites. After a slab you have a 5 meter long roof with plenty of jugs and a few pinches. Amazing =)
The next pitches are not that difficult, but demanding and so I was super tired when we arrived back to the car. Now I definitely want to go back…
I was also in Pontives last week and I discovered that a construction company has fenced a big part of the main sector. I don’t know yet what they are going to do exacly, but as soon as I know it, I’ll blog about it. Stay tuned ;-)
19 May 2012
No comment!
Was psyched to try th new project, but....This is was put an end to my tries yesterday!!! no bueno
28 March 2012
It's going on =)
Well, life is full of unexpected happenings ;-)
Lately I’ve spent quite a lot of time in Pontives and every day has been exciting: searching new lines, cleaning them and most of all trying them later on. Two weeks ago I tried briefly a steep roof. I had always thought that the line would be nearly impossible or at least not doable with my strength, but the line is amazing and so I gave it a few tries. I figured out some good beta and was able to do “almost” all the moves within a few minutes. We then went to another boulder, but this one definitely got stuck in my head and I really couldn’t wait to come back and retry it.
Unfortunately two days later I started feeling pain in my wrist. Already two years ago I had to deal with a serious wrist injury and so I gave up my training for a while and climbed only easy stuff. But it got even worse and so I decided to do some preventive rest. My wrist still hurts, but I’m still confident that it will pass soon so that I can restart climbing… The only positive thing is that I’ve know enough time to go to university, but well… ;-)
By the way, I’ve booked my flights to South Africa for this summer. Almost 40 days of bouldering in Rocklands. I’m already now so incredibly psyched…OMG…hopefully I can soon restart training =)
Below the link to a very nice video Martin Dejori and Marvin Kovald have done of their trip to Cresciano and Chironico. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CMCmwANjYU
28 March 2012
Pontives 2012 - Chapter 1
The Pontives season just started and there are already prime conditions. I’ve a new project I started cleaning last year, but I hadn’t tried it till last week. This week I figured out most of the moves and all I can say is that it is sick. Some big moves lead to an awesome jump to a good hold and the remaining 4 meters (!!!) are easy but really exposed ;-)
Today I tried with Michael P. some new boulders in a fairly new sector. After a while Michael did the FA of an amazing boulder with a crazy jump at the end and I repeated it a bit later. The problem is 7b/7b+ and really cool. The sit start to the problem is even better and probably more in the 7c+/8a range. Don’t know. Can’t wait to try it again =)
Next we went to a sick roof. After cleaning it a bit we tried the problem and it has some of the best moves I’ve ever done in a roof. Some easy compression moves (amazing!!!) along two rails lead to an a bit more technical exit. We haven’t done the problem yet, but it’s probably in the 7b+ range as well. By the way, on the same roof a bit to the left there is another amazing project, this one probably in the 8b range ;-) So much to do…
The guidebook I did of Pontives two years ago is still online, but there are meanwhile quite a few new problems in the area. Right now we are cleaning and opening new boulders in 5 different sectors and therefore there are a lot of new problems.
11 March 2012
Cresciano 2012
I just came back frome my trip to Cresciano and it’s been awesome. It was my first trip to Ticino and I really enjoyed discovering new areas. The weather was good and the only bad thing was the lack of skin at a certain point ;-)
I tried a lot of super problems and here are the one who impressed me most (unfortunately I was able to do just a few of them):
La Pelle, 8a+ (NOT DONE): True classic line. Tried it a bit the first day, came back two days later but had no skin and it hurt that much that I wasn’t even able to hold the startholds. Definitely want to do this one next time ;)
Kirk Windstein, 8a (DONE): Tried a bit the moves and did it in a few tries. Crimpy, not that steep and definitely more my style. Really cool boulder!!! By the way, Michael P. flashed this one - impressive!!!!
La Proue, 8b (NOT DONE): I wasn’t even nearly able to climb this one. It’s tremendous hard to place your left foot and I didn’t take the time to try it more than 5 minutes. One for the next trip =)
Le vent sombre, 8a (NOT DONE): A slab with two big moves. Tried it a bit, fell with the last hold in my hand a few times and then gave it up, because the second hold was splitting my skin. Nevertheless really cool to try this problem.
La Boule, 8a (DONE): One of the first 8a’s in Cresciano. Super classic. Tried it at the end of the day and was super tired. About 30 tries in one hour??? Had to try hard, but the moves are really good and I really enjoyed climbing this one!
Jungle Book sit, 8a (DONE): The stand is probably the best boulder in Cresciano!!! The sit adds in difficulty but definitely not in beauty. Took me about an hour to climb the whole boulder and was very happy afterwards. Super boulder!!!
Dreamtime stand, 8a+ (NOT DONE): This one is a proud boulder, especially doing the jump. Tried it about half an hour with the crimp beta and was able to do the first move, but then had to quit because of a hole in my fingertip. Will definitely come back to try this again!!!
Il Partner, 7c (DONE): Flashed this one pretty easily. The sit isn’t that good, but the rest of the problem is super. Proud line with big moves till the end. 5 stars line!
Frank’s wild years, 8a/8a+ (NOT DONE): Tried this on the last day. Super boulder, but definitely not my style. Tried hard till it was dark with the headlamp, but wasn’t able to complete the problem. Hopefully next time it’ll feel easier ;)
Backgammon, 7c (DONE): This one doesn’t look that good! Took me a while to figure out the moves, and then sent. Really wanted to do also the sit (8a), but it was already getting dark and so I wasn’t anymore able to link all the moves. This one climbs definitely better than it looks!
One day was also spent in Chironico, which is at least as good as Cresciano.
Confession of a crap artist, 7c??? (DONE): One of the best boulders. High with some fun moves. Fell on the flash at the top because my hand slipped and did it two tries later. Definitely not 8a and probably neither 7c+.
Miss Schweiz, 8a (DONE): Did it with the jump beta. Crazy like that. The last moves aren’t that hard, but really exposed, so quite scary. Just another 5 stars line ;)
Freak Brothers, 8a (NOT DONE): Had seen so many videos of this problem and really wanted to do this one. Found it at the end of the day and put a lot of effort into it. Came really close to climb it, but then it got dark, my fingers were bleeding and my body was sore. Chrionico is without doubt worth a trip.
Those were definitely the boulders that impressed me most. Unfortunately I failed on many of them, or just came very close to climb them. It was my first time in Cresciano and Chironico and I already now plan to return as soon as possible. The boulders are just way too amazing and there are so many lines I want to try. Can’t wait to return.
26 February 2012
Cresciano here I come ;)
In two days I'm going to Cresciano for a week of bouldering. I've never been in Cresciano and I'm super psyched for the short trip.
Here the video of my last bouldering trip to Magic Woods last summer. Just to keep the psyche high ;)
Lots of boulders in my mind, so stay tuned =)
14 February 2012
New year ;)
It’s been a long time since my last update. A very long time!!!
In December I’ve done some kind of break, climbing just once a week or so, and only in January I started again training a bit. The break wasn’t programmed at all (to be honest, I’ve never done one), but my mind was tired and I really needed some rest.
My first semester at University is over and I’ve now about one month of vacation ;) Unfortunately the weather forecast for the next few days isn’t that promising (temps down to -20°) for this week, but next week seems already a bit better.
Last Sunday I was in Terlago, a little crag near Arco and I started working a bit on a route called Thin Ice. Thin Ice is a nice 8c route with a lot of crimps and it took me quite a while to just figure out the moves, but now I’m really psyched to return and finish the unfinished business ;)
Yesterday I was in Algund for a short bouldering session. It was cold and most boulders were covered with snow, but I really wanted to try a boulder I wasn’t able to climb the previous times. The boulder is called Pizza,Beer and 230 Hp and is about 10 moves long. Already two years ago I was close doing the problem, but something always happened. Yesterday I was finally able to climb the whole problem and although it’s “only” 8a I’m very happy it’s over now ;) Onto the next one...
All pictures by Alexandra Ladurner ;)
The competition season is over
…and I totally failed. The last two competitions were even the worst!
Two weeks ago I was in Kranj for the last EYC 2011. Already in the two qualification routes I climbed super bad. Nevertheless I started climbing the final route pretty confident, because I knew that I was actually in a good shape. About 10 moves before the top there was a little volume and I totally got into panic. I did two more moves and fell then like a little child four moves before the winner did and finished the competition on the 8th position.
Two days later I became ill. I was three days in the bad with fewer and felt super weak. The next day I left for Aprica for the Italian Championship and although I felt already way better I was still far from my usual shape. I managed to qualify for the finals, but there I wasn’t able to do the hard moves and felt already at the beginning of the route -> 7th position.
In the last few weeks I’ve been training quite a lot for this last two competitions of the season and now I’m super disappointed on how I climbed. Bad things happen…
Right now I’m taking a few days off from climbing. Not because my body is sore after the long season, but mainly because I really need to find again my “amazing” motivation after this two frustrating competitions.
06 december 2011
Upcoming competitions
It’s still the university, the one who takes up most of my time. Although the conditions for rock climbing are now prime (all the recent hard ascent all around prove that), I’ve not been climbing outdoors for quite a while and honestly, I’m not proud of that.
At least I’ve been able to train a bit and so I’m not completely out of shape right now. Next weekend, the 26th and 27th, I’ll take part at the last European Youth Cup of the season. It’s the last year I’m allowed to compete among the juniors and so my last junior competition – ever. I always enjoyed competing at the junior competitions and I’m in some way sad, that this’ll be my last one. I’ve seen that all the strong guys in my category will take part at this competition, so it’s going to be a tough one for sure, but I promise I’ll give my best ;-)
The weekend after Kranj there is the Italian Championship in Aprica. The wall in Aprica is not my favorite one, but I’m really excited for this comp, too.
After this two competitions the season is definitely over and I really hope, I’ll manage to climb outside during the winter and try some projects. I’ve already some in my mind ;)
18 november 2011
Some photos and the official video of the IMS 2011
I've already written something about the IMS competition, which was held last week. Here finally some photos and a short video.
All pictures: http://www.stol.it/PR/IMS2011/Boulderfestival-in-Brixen-Bildergalerie
Here a short video of the competition ;) enjoy
IMS Boulder Festival
If you are successful it’s easy to find the motivation to write something for the blog. But unfortunately lately I wasn’t too lucky in the competitions and that’s basically what I’ve been focusing on in the last period.
On Monday and Tuesday I did some route setting during the NIGHT (what means that we worked both days till 5am). After that I had no skin anymore and so I had to take 3 rest days, since my hands were hurting too much.
The IMS bouldering festival started on Friday with the Boulder Jam. In the qualifications I didn’t feel strong at all, but after two and a half hour of bouldering I had climbed all the problems but one and so I qualified for the finals in the evening.
During the finals it was freaking hot. We all had no skin anymore and we all were still pretty tired from the qualification round. The first boulder was pretty tough. There was a really hard move at the beginning and I just managed to do it by throwing my foot high above my head and doing a freaking crazy move. Unfortunately this solution took me a lot of energy and so I was too tired to climb the end of the problem. On the second problem I failed miserably. Completely. The third boulder should have been determining. I felt again a bit better and managed to do the first part of the problem quite well. And then there was a double dyno in the middle. Normally it’s probably one of the easiest moves of the boulder, but I failed twice trying to do the jump and that cost me the victory. Nicky de Leeuw won, Michael Piccolruaz got second and I got third. Not bad, but well…
On Saturday there was the competition with the stars. Unfortunately the boulders were a bit too hard. Adam Ondra won deserved and I have to admit, that he looks incredibly strong and that on every kind of boulder. Guillaume got second and I think he will be one of the strongest guys even next year in the World Cup. Kilian Fischhuber ended on the third position, Stefan Scarperi on the 4th, Daniel Woods on the 5th and Nicky de Leeuw on the 6th. Among the girls Anna Stöhr won by flashing easily the last problem, in front of Melanie Sandoz, Sabine Bacher, Andrea Prünster, Andrea Ebner and Courtney Sanders. It was again a nice event and even the after comp party was not bad at all =)
Unfortunately I have no photos yet...
30 october 2011
Massone and Italian Cup
In the last days I’ve been pretty busy. During the week I wanted to train a bit for the lead competition, but ended doing just some bouldering. On Friday I started cleaning a really nice boulder in Pontives. The first moves look really hard and the topout is, although the moves are not hard, kinda scary since the boulder is about 7 meters high.
On Saturday I spent a few hours in Massone. I tried once Underground, 9a, but it’s totally my antistyle and I think I would have to invest a lot of time for being able to climb it. After that I climbed some easier routes and onsighted a nice and technical 8a called Profumo d’invisibile.
Today I participated at the Lead Italian Cup in Arco. I haven’t been climbing with a rope for the last two months and could not judge if I was strong or not. I surprised myself by climbing pretty well in the semifinals and falling just four moves from the top. I entered in the finals as 3rd and was really happy about that.
The route in the final was pretty long. I climbed my way throw the lower part well but a bit too slowly. I reached a no hand rest when I had about one minute left. I knew that I had not enough time to rest properly and so I just rested for a few seconds. The last moves were quite hard. I managed to climb throw that section and fell touching the final jug. I was happy but knew I could have done better since I had 10 seconds left when I fell and that would have been enough for clipping the chain. At that moment I was first. The next one clipped the chain, but since he was out of time while clipping he didn’t get the top. Even the last one had some time problems and fell at the same point as me.
16 october 2011
"Cold Front" - the epic is over ;)
Since last year, when we discovered the bouldering area Pontives, there has always been one boulder in my mind. It was cleaned by a good friend of mine already in the summer last year but I only started trying it in autumn 2010. After three sessions I was getting really close, but then I unfortunately broke the start hold and since that made the whole problem a lot harder, I lost my motivation since it was already November and my chances of climbing the boulder before the snow came, were basically zero.
Despite being without a chance I was again really motivated to try the problem. Two days later a cold front rolled by and dropped the temperature by almost 20 degrees. Now it was almost too cold, but I was really psyched and so I went again to Pontives two days ago. Surprisingly with the better conditions the holds felt a ton better and after two hours I left pretty confident. I had done a few promising tries and I couldn`t wait to come back.The next day, yesterday, I was really motivated to try the problem again but I was feeling a bit sick and so I took a rest day and went on the alp with some good friend to relax a bit ;)
Today I arrived home at 5 a clock. Since it gets already dark at 7pm, I was uncertain if it was worth to go and try the problem, but then my motivation prevailed. After a few nice warm up problems I started trying my project. I worked for a bit the moves and then started doing some serious tries. I was feeling good but I just rarely was able to stick the first move and then I always failed on the next one. It was already getting dark and I was feeling the pressure. I took a few minutes of rest and then retried the problem. I did the first move perfectly and was really surprised as I managed to put enough pressure on the crimp to change hand quite easily. I was really excited and luckily I was even able to stick the next move. From there I fought my way up to the top and couldn`t believe it when I grabbed the ledge =)
I call the boulder problem “Cold Front” and in my opinion it`s a five star boulder. The moves are really good and the holds pretty cool and the only problem is that you need a lot of skin if you want to try it a lot. And what`s about the grade??? I have not a lot of experience in grading boulder problems, but it’s the hardest boulder I have ever done and so I propose the grade 8a+ and hope that soon someone will repeat the problem =)
Next weekend I’ll be in Arco for the Italian Cup. I’ve just been bouldering lately and hope I’ve enough endurance…but there is still a week left, so hopefully I’ll be able to train a bit =)
P.s.: Right now I have just a few old photos of me on the problem...hopefully I'll get some fresh one soon.
09 october 2011
Projects in Pontives
Hi folks. I’m sorry for the lack of updates lately but I’ve been really busy with all kind of things. The biggest change was the start of the university. Since last week I’m attending the Free University of Bolzano and since then I’ve been fully taken up by it. The courses are all pretty demanding I’ve not been able to climb a lot. Hopefully I’ll be able to find enough time to train seriously despite that.
This weekend I was again in Pontives for the first time after a long period. On the first day I climbed the super boulder problem Graffity girl, 7c. The problem took me just a few minutes and so I decided to go and try my old project. I was able to reclimb the first move after the break of the starthold last year but had to struggle on the rest of the problem and I will probably have to try it a few more times.
Today we brushed some boulders and I’m pretty psyched on some of the new projects. Now I just need some better temps and enough time to try them ;)
02 september 2011
EYC in Merano
The first bouldering EYC took place this weekend in Merano. IMO it’s been a great event and I’m sure that we are going to see this typ of competitions as often as the lead competitions in the future. The qualification of all the categories started already on Saturday. Since I’ve almost just been training for the lead competitions lately I had no expectations, nevertheless I was really glad to have the opportunity to participate.
In the qualifications every athlete had to climb 12 boulder problems during an hour and a half. I tried a muerte for the whole time and ended the comp with 9 tops and 12 zones, and despite all the problems would have been possible I’m not disappointed at all with my performance. Nevertheless I finished the comp only on the 11th position and so I didn’t qualify myself for the finals.
The finals on Sunday were quite funny. Some of the athletes showed that they have already the power to compete at senior competitions like some of the French, Austrian and Slovenian team. Even the Italians impressed. Annalisa won among the youngest women and my good mate Michael got second in his category…I’m very glad for him =) Stefano got 3rd and that’s not bad with that strong rivals. Alexandra ended “only” 2nd, but considering that she has big problems with her wrist injury right now, it’s really impressing.
I’m not going to the next bouldering competition in Munich, which allows me to train for the upcoming lead competitions. Oh, by the way…I have two more weeks free, and then I’ll attend university in Bolzano ;-)
13 september 2011
World Youth Championship
The comp is now over and it’s been good fun. The qualifications started last Thursday and I climbed pretty worse. I wasn’t feeling strong at all and so I was happy that I entered at least in the semifinals.
On Saturday, the day of the semifinals, I was really excited. Right now I am climbing way better if the routes are on sight and it didn’t matter me that it was raining. I started my climbing relaxed and I was lucky enough to progress without difficulties. I was psyched and I wasn`t that pumpy when I arrived under the big roof. Only a few moves remained to reach the top and I was feeling still comfortable…and then my hand slipped. I ended the comp on the 10th position and missed the entrance to the finals.
The finals were a great show. The Röck family won in two categories, Julia Serrier beat the incredible strong Ernst and DiGiulian and the Slovenian team impressed with Raztresen and Skofic dominating in his category. The Italians weren`t so lucky…the defending champion Alexandra Ladurner had to fight with a wrist injury and the only Italian reaching the podium was Stefano Ghisolfi, but even he could have do more…nevertheless you are all my heros =)
And of course the after contest party has been great, too =)
29 august 2011
...
I spent last week in Merano setting some boulders in the gym.
The World Youth Championship in Imst starts in two days. Getting psyched!
23 august 2011
EYS Imst 2011
I’ve been on the road since my last post. I spent the first days in Tarvisio, where we trained a bit for the upcoming competitions. On the last day of the training camp we went to Warmbad which is a really cool crag and I would really like to return to this place in the near future. I tried a few routes, but failed on every serious on sight attempt. At least I managed to climb a two 8as =)
On our rest day we headed to Imst for the EYS. The competition was good fun and the routes were super. I entered in the finals with a mediocre presentation, but at least I entered. I started the final route without mistakes and reached the big roof without being too pumped. Unfortunately right now I’m super weak climbing roofs and I fell after a few moves jumping to a hold. I didn’t even touch the hold and so I ended on 5th position. If I would have touch the hold I would at least have became third, but who cares.
Tomorrow I’m going to Merano, where I will work a bit as boulder setter for a few days. The days after, I’m planning to train a bit, because the World Youth Championship starts already on Wednesday 24th. Can’t wait for it ;-)
16 august 2011
Training camp
Training seriously is a hard job. My fingers hurt and my body feels completely destroyed. And nevertheless I'm not even feeling strong at the moment. Hopefully I’ll be at least fit for the competitions at the end of the season.
Tomorrow I’m going to Tarvisio for a training camp of the national youth team as a preparation for the upcoming competitions. The next will be the EYS in Imst and two weeks later the Youth World Championship.
I’m looking forward to climb again on some real rock, too, but that’s probably not as soon as I would like. Enjoy meanwhile some of the pictures of my latest trips to the rock.
picture courtesy by Alexandra Ladurner, Martin Dejori and Marvin Kobald
08 april 2011
Short trip to Ötztal
It’s been quite a while since my last post but I have been extremely busy lately. A few days after the Magic Wood trip, I drove to Arco for the World Championship. My performance at the comp was anything but good and I ended more or less in the middle of the ranking. Nevertheless it was really cool to see the great show of some of the best athletes of the moment like Sharafutdinov (!!!), Stöhr, Ramon, Schubert, Ondra and Eiter.
Yesterday I was in Ötztal for some climbing. I had some unfinished business with In memo reini, a bouldery 8c route that I had already tried a bit last year. I worked a bit the moves as warm up and did then on my third go of the day. Although the route is not so hard I was really happy to have done it and spent the rest of the day trying some fun routes like the wet 8a Twilight zone.
In the next few days I am planning to train a bit for the upcoming comps and then I hope to be able to try some projects. Super psyched for that ;-)
31 july 2011
The magic wood vid
As promised, here the video to our trip to Magic Wood. Enjoy...;-)
These days I am in Arco for the World Championship. Super excited =)
18 july 2011
One week in Magic Wood
I have spent the last week in Magic Wood and it’s been incredible. We started right after my final examination and reached Magic Wood in the late afternoon. Straight away I started trying the second part of the Never ending story, 8a. Since it’s not my style I was pretty surprised as I managed to climb the boulder after about half an hour and so I worked a bit on the moves of One summer in paradise at the end of the day.
On the second day I tried various boulders. I climbed a nice traverse called Down under, 7c+, and worked a bit on some other problems till my skin was destroyed.
The third day was a good day. After an ascent of Sofa surfer, an 8a boulder with cool moves on slopers, I went to Octopussy and surprised myself by doing it in less than an hour. Although this boulder doesn’t look so good it’s really fun to climb it.
On the fourth day I rested almost the whole day and I just made a few tries in One summer in paradise, falling at the last move for about three times. The next day I finally managed to climb the problem. One summer in paradise is one of the best boulders I have ever done and my first 8b =) Although it’s for sure not hard for the grade it was super fun to climb it.
Yesterday, the last day of our trip, I tried some wired boulders. I had a look at Riverbad, which is so amazing and I can’t wait to return to Magic Wood to try this problem…
In the next few day I hope to train a bit, because then I’m off to Arco for the World Championship. Can’t wait for it!!!
P.s.: We have shot some stuff and we’ll make a film with some of the best problems we did, so stay tuned =)
picture courtesy by Alexandra Ladurner, Martin Dejori and Marvin Kobald
08 april 2011
